ROUSES.COM
11
BreAKFAst
the French press tabasco Honey Butter
Makes about ½ cup
WHAT YOU WILL NEED
⅓
cup unsalted butter
2½ tablespoons honey
2
teaspoons Tabasco sauce
HOW TO PREP
In a small saucepan, melt butter. Add honey and Tabasco and whisk to combine;
remove from heat and reserve. Unused portion can be kept in an airtight
container in the refrigerator up to 1 week. Stir well before use.
Add some LOCAL FLAVOR
reCIpe,
try me!
The French Press, Lafayette, La — Acadian Breakfast Sandwich
The French Press, Lafayette, La
My first day on the job at Commander’s
Palace was Mother’s Day. I poached
about 3,000 eggs, and still to this day, I
just freak out when there’s anything with
eggs. If we do serve brunch, I’m never the
egg guy. I had my time in the trenches.
—Chef Patrick Waters, Café Vermilionville
For more from Chef Waters turn to page 41.
BIsCUIts
by
Ali Rouse Royster
T
here’s no shame inusingcannedor frozenbiscuits or rolls,especially
if you’re Southern. After all, those pressurized foil sleeves that pop
when you twist them were invented by a Kentuckian with a name that
even sounds Southern, L.B. (Lively) Willoughby. And two of the best
frozen biscuits brands we sell were created in Alabama.
John Marshall opened his first Electrik Maid Bake Shop in 1924.
The coffee shop and his buttermilk biscuits were so popular
Marshall expanded. But by 1960, he’d switched to wholesaling
tins of his refrigerated par-baked biscuits to area grocery stores.
Marshall’s was eventually sold to an Ohio-based corporation, but
those biscuits — a blend of cake flour and bread flour for softness
and rising flour, salt, baking powder, shortening and buttermilk —
are still made in Saraland, Alabama.
That same Ohio-based company bought Sister Schuberts, a popular
line of biscuits and rolls created by Patricia “Sister” Schubert in 1989.
Schubert sold her first rolls at a Frozen Food Fair for St. Mark’s
Episcopal Church in Troy, Alabama. By 1993, she’d opened her
first bakery inside her father’s furniture warehouse. Eventually she
expanded into a 87,000-square-foot plant built in Luverne, Alabama.
On the rare occasion I make my own biscuit dough, I’ll freeze what I don’t
bake. Cut the dough first, so when it defrosts all you have to do is stick the
biscuits in the oven.
“At my restaurant, I’ve brought a lot of people
back from the dead after a long night out with
the Pylon: A split, griddle-fried hot dog with
chili, slaw, cheddar, mustard, chopped pickles,
onion, jalapeño peppers and oyster crackers,
all on a sweet waffle.”
—Chef John Currence,
Big Bad Breakfast,
Oxford, Mississippi
