18
MY
ROUSES
EVERYDAY
MAY | JUNE 2014
How To shop for fish
by
Chef Tenney Flynn, G.W.Fins
W
ithout a doubt, the most important aspect of purchasing
seafood is trusting your fishmonger. Your relationship with
your fishmonger is a lot like the one with your mechanic — you have
to check references, shop around and when you choose one there
is a strong element of trust involved that he knows more than you
do and has your best interests at heart. First of all — don’t fall in
love with one variety in a recipe. Most good fish recipes will provide
substitutions and this will allow you to follow the lead of the person
behind the counter.
If purchasing a whole fish, there are several tell-tale signs to check
for. Number one — there should be practically no smell, either in
the fish or the seafood department. The only odor should be that of
sea water. The belly cavity of really fresh Scottish and Irish salmon
smells like cut watermelon.
The gills should be bright red.
The flesh should be plump
and springy to light pressure.
If the fish has a shrunken look,
especially around the eyes, it is a
sign that it has been around for
a while.
As for fish that is portioned in
the case, a fresh filet should have
plump, moist and firm flesh with
no separation of the “flakes.”
the
Chef
issue
The bloodline that runs along the backbone should be red or dark
red. If you’ve ever looked at the fish in a good sushi bar case that’s an
indication of what you’re looking for.
The Rouses seafood department may place FAS (frozen at sea) or
previously frozen filets on ice in the display case to thaw slowly. Or
they may be packaged in the freezer section. This can be a good
option. I’d rather eat fish that was frozen just after harvesting than
ones that took a slow ride with too little ice. A rule of thumb is
for every 2 degrees over 32 degrees the fish (whole or filleted) has
withstood, a day of shelf life is lost.
In my opinion, a top quality seafood market offers a combination of
farm raised fish as well as wild caught. Even though wild fish are the
last wild food that most Americans eat, there are several varieties of
excellent farm raised fish. Bronzini, some varieties of salmon (notably
Irish and Scottish), and some domestic catfish can be good choices.
Farmed fish provides a consistent supply of good quality, fairly priced
seafood. Ultimately, freshness in the grocery
store is easier to achieve since it’s a controlled
harvest.
Once you purchase your fish, it’s important
that you store it wrapped in a bowl of ice in
the coldest part of your refrigerator.
One of the most important factors in
selecting seafood is knowing the flavor
profile of the fish that is most pleasing to
the person enjoying it. To the right is a
classification of fish based on a flavor scale
from mild to full flavored, which is usually
due to the fat content of the fish.
Meet the Chef —
tenney flynn
Restaurant:
G.W. Fins, New Orleans, LA
MYFIRSTPROFESSIONAL JOB
was in my father’s restaurant in Stone Mountain,
Georgia.
SEAFOOD OR STEAK?
I was Director of Culinary Operations for Ruth’s Chris
Steakhouse before we launched G.W. Fins. I love steak, and I have one on my menu,
but my passion is seafood. Our selections change daily.
BISCUITS OR BREAD?
Biscuits. We’re famous for them.
photo by
Cheryl Gerber
GWFINS
Signature Biscuits
WHAT YOU WILL NEED
4
cups White Lily self rising flour
¾
cups Lard
1½ cups Milk
4
tablespoons (OR ¼ cup) Sugar
Vegetable oil spray
RECIPE,
try me!
HOW TO PREP
Set oven to 400°. Mix flour and lard together with
a pastry blender (or fork) until the fat is worked in
and the mixture is a coarse crumb consistency.
Add sugar and stir in milk to make soft dough.
Allow to rest for a few minutes. Scoop onto a
baking sheet sprayed with vegetable oil spray.
Bake for 8 minutes. Serve immediately with soft,
sweet butter.
