Page 14 - March & April

12 MYROUSESEVERYDAY MARCH | APRIL 2013
T he Italian tradition of the St. Joseph altar is alive
and well in South Louisiana — a place where
the prevalent Catholic faith fuels annual feasting
events. Begun in the Middle Ages when Sicily was
suffering from a severe drought, the faithful prayed
fervently to St. Joseph, the patron saint of the family, to end their
suffering. When the rains finally came, a bumper crop of fava
beans grew, saving the people from starvation. In thanks, Italians
promised to honor and remember this great favor with altars
adorned with food and erected each year in St. Joseph’s honor.
When Sicilians migrated to New Orleans in the late 1800’s, they
brought the tradition with them. Called “Mi Careme” by Creoles,
meaning “Mid-Lent” because the feast day, March 19th, always
occurs during the Lenten season. Consequently, only meatless
dishes are allowed, but what a true feast it is!
Whole fish and other sea-
food dishes, and richly stuffed
vegetables like artichokes
and eggplants accompany an
astounding array of baked
goods. Decorative breads de-
picting St. Joseph’s carpenter’s
tools, religious objects like the
monstrance and cross along
with items as simple as Baby
Jesus’ sandals are sometimes accented with the same fig stuffing
that fills the cuccidati cookies. Coconut adorned, three dimen-
sional lamb cakes join others decorated to resemble the Holy
Bible. Bottles of wine and bowls of blessed fava beans surrounded
by flickering votive candlelight complete the three-tiered display.
The St. Joseph’s altar tradition can be found today in churches,
community centers, schools, restaurants and even private homes
all over South Louisiana and along the Mississippi Gulf Coast.
Public altar locations can be found in the classifieds under a special
“St. Joseph Altar” listing. When the altar is “opened” to the public,
a priest blesses it, then, often three children representing the Holy
Family knock the “Tupa, tupa,” inquiring if there is room at the
inn. When the Holy Family is welcomed in, they are seated and
ceremoniously served first. The altar is then open to visitors for
feasting. There is no charge, but donations are always gratefully
accepted for the generous servings of Pasta Milanese sometimes
accompanied by a hearty glass of red wine. Everyone who visits
an altar is gifted with a small bag usually containing a holy card,
a couple of cookies, a blessed fava bean and a little piece of bread.
The bread is meant to be saved until a storm approaches. It’s
wildly believed throwing the blessed St. Joseph bread out of back
door will make the storm go away!
View our altars: March 15-19th at the following Rouses:
204 N. Canal Blvd., Thibodaux; 5818 West Main, Houma;
2900 Veterans, Metairie; 701 Baronne St., New Orleans.
FIGS
Several varieties of figs are
appropriate for drying or add-
ing to fig cookies and cakes
for St. Joseph’s altars: deep
purple-black Mission figs, are
sweet and jammy; Brown Tur-
key figs, have a milder figgy
flavor; and Greek “string” figs,
are soft, sweet and juicy.
MEDJOOL DATES
Large, deep and amber-
brown, Medjool dates are
known for their remarkable
sweetness and chewy texture
FAVA BEANS
Blessed, dried, fava beans,
often called “lucky” beans,
are a mainstay on the
St. Joseph’s altar or table.
They are associated with
prosperity, and, legend has
it, if you carry one, you will
never be broke.
ASK CHAYA
Why aren’t Sicilian cookies
chewy like other cookies?
Italian seed cookies, biscotti
and other Sicilian cookies are
drier than a traditional choc-
olate chip or sugar cookie
because they are meant to
be dunked in coffee or even
a glass of wine.
—Chaya Conrad, Bakery Director
Did you know?
St. Joseph is the Patron
Saint of pastry chefs.
The St. Joseph Altar Tradition
by Poppy Tooker + photos by Eugenie Uhl