ROUSES.COM
45
NEW YEAR’S DAY
G
umbo, smothered chicken, beef stew, redfish courtbouillon ... What do
these local favorites have in common, besides being delicious? To make
them, first you need a roux.
The word roux translates to red in French, but rouxs come in all different colors,
from blonde to almost black. Every roux is made with two ingredients, fat and
flour. You can use oil, butter, lard, or even bacon fat, but a basic roux, which is
what you need for a courtbouillon, is just vegetable oil and flour.
For the most part the ratio for a roux is equal parts oil and flour. But not always.
Chef John Folse teaches students at the Culinary Institute at Nicholls State
his secret to making a roux that’s right for your recipe. Before you start, Folse
teaches, think about what you’re cooking; for instance, if you’re using sausage,
you’re going to need a little more flour to absorb the extra oil.
Now I don’t claim to be an expert on making a roux — although some people
consider me a
gu-roux
— but as anyone who has been to one of Rouses cooking
classes knows, I love to share what I know. And if there’s one thing you need to
know to make a roux, it’s how to stir. That flattened wooden spoon in your hand
needs to be an extension of your arm. As you stir, keep pushing the roux out to
the edges. You need to make sure that every square inch of the pot is scraped
and stirred so that nothing sticks, because if it sticks, it’s going to scorch, and
you’ll have to start all over again.
Redfish Courtbouillon
(pronounced koo-bee-YAWN)
You can substitute catfish, drum, tilapia, even shrimp or
turtle for the redfish.
WHAT YOU WILL NEED
⅓
cup Rouses vegetable oil
⅓
cup all-purpose flour
1
rib celery, finely chopped
1
onion, finely chopped
½
bell pepper, finely chopped
2
garlic cloves, minced
4
green onions, finely chopped
28 ounce can whole peeled tomatoes, chopped
1
cup red wine
6
sprigs fresh parsley, finely chopped
1
large sprig of thyme, finely chopped
6
whole allspice berries or ¼ teaspoon ground
3
bay leaves
2
teaspoons Rouses salt
½
teaspoon freshly ground Rouses black pepper
½
teaspoon Rouses cayenne pepper
Medium lemon, juiced
2
cups water
1
medium-size redfish, cut into 2-inch pieces
1
lemon, sliced
6
cups white rice, for serving
Rouses French bread, for dipping
HOW TO PREP
In a large, black iron or heavy bottom pot heat oil over low. Add
flour, a little bit at a time, stirring constantly, and cook for 30
minutes until you have a medium brown roux. Add your trinity
(celery, onion and bell pepper), garlic (the pope), and green onions,
and continue stirring until vegetables are wilted, about 10 minutes.
Add tomatoes and red wine, and continue to cook an additional 5
minutes.Add parsley, thyme, allspice and bay leaf, season with salt,
pepper and cayenne, and add lemon juice and water.
Mix well and bring to a boil and lower heat so sauce
can simmer. Cook, stirring often, for 30 minutes, to
thicken sauce. Add fish and lemon and let simmer
for 10 minutes. Serve in soup bowls over rice
with a side of French bread.
Mom’s Microwave Roux
If you ask most people in the Deep South who the best cook they know is, they’ll
tell you it’s their momma. I’m no different. My mom Karen cooks the best
gumbo, the best rice dressing, the best beef stew, the best (fill-in-the-blank) —
you get the picture, I like my mom’s cooking. The funny thing is, Karen hates
to cook. Really does not enjoy it, but does it anyway because we all enjoy it
so much ( you’ve got to love that about moms). So if she finds a shortcut that
doesn’t sacrifice the taste, she is all about it. As a busy working new mom, I
really appreciate being able to learn my mom’s tricks of the trade to use at
home. Here’s one of her tricks: microwave roux.
—Ali Rouse Royster
WHAT YOU WILL NEED
¾
cup Rouses vegetable oil
1
cup all purpose flour
HOW TO PREP
In a large, deep microwaveable dish, whisk together
ingredients until smooth. Microwave on high for four minutes,
remove and stir. (Be careful, dish will be very hot).
Microwave for another three minutes, remove and
stir. Microwave for another two minutes, remove
and stir. Microwave for another one minute,
remove and stir. At this point your roux
should be a nice caramel color.
The color of a roux depends on how long you cook it. A blond
roux cooks in 10 to 15 minutes, a medium brown roux in 30 to
35 minutes, and a dark brown in about 40 minutes.
—Chef Nino
