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Y
ou can judge howgood aPhoSoup is by howmuch concentrated
flavor is packed in the broth while still retaining a clean, un-
cloudy and clear broth. I like my Pho without Sriracha or Hoisin
Sauce. I really enjoy the purity of the chicken broth without
anything to hide its flavor or aroma. There are two very important
steps to a clear but intense broth 1) Par boiling the chicken to get
rid of the impurities. 2) Charring the Ginger and Onion gives off a
naturally sweet and robust flavor.
—Marc Gilberti
PHOGA CHICKEN
WHAT YOU WILL NEED
Broth
1 chicken – 4 pound average (excess fat and tail remove)
2 pounds chicken necks
5 quarts water
4 inch chubby section fresh ginger (un-peeled)
1 whole onion (un-peeled and cut in-half)
1 tablespoon salt
2 tablespoons coriander seeds (toasted in a dry skillet for 1 minute)
4 whole cloves
2 whole star anise
1 table sugar
1 small bunch of cilantro (rough chopped)
1 teaspoon fish sauce (optional)
Bowls
1 pound small flat rice noodles (dried or fresh)
Garnish
1 bunch green onions (thinly sliced)
⅓
cup chopped fresh cilantro (leafy top only)
2 cups fresh bean sprouts
6 lime wedges
Sriracha and Hoisin Sauce (optional)
HOW TO PREP
Broth
Place the onions and ginger directly on the cooking grate of a medium-hot
charcoal or gas grill (this can also be done in the broiler portion of an oven). Let
the skin burn, using the tongs to rotate onion and ginger occasionally; after 15
minutes the onions and ginger will have softend slightly and become sweetly
fragrant. After charring remove from heat and let cool. Once cooled rinse
the onions under warm running water, rubbing off the charred skin; set onions
and ginger aside. For a clear broth, you must par-boil the chicken in a large
stock pot covering with water for 15 to 20 minutes and rinse the chicken with
cool water after par-boiling. Scrub the stock pot clean and return the chicken to
the pot, pour the 5 qts. of water add the onions, ginger, Salt, Fish Sauce, Toasted
Coriander Seeds, Cloves, Star Anise and Cilantro and cook uncovered for 25
minutes, adjusting the heat if needed to maintain a gentle simmer. Using a pair
of tongs grab the chicken and transfer into a large bowl to cool. After cooling
(15 to 20 minutes) pull the chicken from bones and set aside. Strain the broth
through a fine-mesh sieve or cheese cloth into another large pot. (6-8 servings)
Bowls
If using dry noodles cover them with hot tap water and let them soak for 15
to 20 minutes until they are pliable - drain in a colander. For each bowl place
a portion of the noodles in a handle strainer and boiling water for 10 to 20
seconds. Pull the strainer from the water, letting the water drain back into the
pot, emptying the noodles into a bowl.
Top each bowl of noodles with pulled chicken, raise the heat to bring the heat
to a rolling boil. Ladle about 2 cups of broth into each bowl evenly to warm
all the ingredients.
Garnish
Garnish with 1 tablespoon of green onions, 1 tablespoon of cilantro, quarter
cup bean sprouts and 1 lime wedge. (Serves 8)
more
RECIPES
Local Vietnamese cuisine made the national spotlight during an
episode of Bravo’s Top Chef. Emeril Lagasse frequents Phò Tâù Bay
in Gretna, which is famous for its Pho, made by Karl Takacs Jr., a
third generation owner.
Here’s John’s Besh version of the soup.
Vietnamese Noodle Soup
by
John Besh, From
My Family Table
On almost any night, we love nothing more than a big, hot bowl
of Vietnamese noodle soup — pho. Don’t worry about the number
of ingredients in this recipe. Pho is nothing more than a flavorful
broth often perfumed with star anise or Chinese five-spice powder
(which has star anise in it).
WHAT YOU WILL NEED
1 tablespoon sesame oil
4 green onions, chopped
2 tablespoons peeled and minced fresh ginger
2 cloves garlic, sliced
2 teaspoons Chinese five-spice powder
3 quarts chicken broth
Salt
Freshly ground black pepper
½ pound rice vermicelli noodles, cooked
1 pound sliced cooked meat, such as braised brisket
Leaves from 1 bunch fresh cilantro
Leaves from 1 bunch fresh basil
2 limes, quartered
2 handfuls bean sprouts
Hoisin sauce
Sambal chili paste
HOW TO PREP
Heat the sesame oil in a large heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high
heat. Add the green onions, ginger, garlic, and five-spice powder and sauté for
2-3 minutes. Add the chicken broth, raise the heat to high, and bring to a boil.
Reduce the heat to medium low. Taste and season with salt and pepper and
cover the pot.
Divide the cooked rice noodles among 6 soup bowls. Over each bowl of noodles,
scatter equal portions of sliced meat, then pour the hot broth over the noodles
so that the meat is barely covered.
In the center of the table put plates of the fresh herbs, lime quarters, and bean
sprouts. Each person can add his own fresh herbs and bean sprouts to the soup.
Squeeze lime over the top, season with hoisin and chili, stir well, and start
slurping. (Serves 6)
Find it online and at local bookstores!
From My Family Table: A Passionate
Plea for Home Cooking
by John Besh /
Andrews McMeel Publishing is available
at local bookstores and amazon.com
